Home Clean-up and Renovation

BUILDING DAMAGE

Check walls and foundations for damage. In spite of heavy damage to buildings caused by high water, much can be done to recover their usefulness. To make the best of it, repair structures as soon as possible.

Here are a few key points:

Check foundations and footings. Start from the bottom when investigating structural features. See that underlying material has not washed out any. Filling done under the footings should be with masonry or concrete, never with earth or gravel. Raise or brace up in position to make doors level.
Wash out the mud, dirt and debris as soon as you can. This should be done before the walls and floors dry out. Start from the top or upper limit of the flooding and work downward, using a hose and mop or washrag.
Dry out the building and the crawl space under the building. Open doors, windows and foundation vents for good ventilation. If electric power is available, use electric fans to improve circulation. Drying will take considerable time — several days or even weeks, if the weather is damp. Wet wood will decay; dry as soon as possible to reduce decay and mold.
Insulated frame walls may require special drying. Strips of siding, gypsum board or plaster can be removed from upper and lower portions of the walls to speed up drying of the studding and insulation.
See that walls are plumb. Check with a level or plumb-bob. Correct and brace walls to keep them vertical.
Repair and patch where necessary, on a temporary basis. Final repairs can be done later, in dry weather, when more time is available.
- Concrete floors are easily patched, using a rich mix of mortar having no coarse aggregate, one to four mix.
- Wooden floors will dry out slowly. Don’t build hot fires to rush drying. Try to prevent buckling and warping by driving more nails wherever flooring tends to lift or bulge. After fully drying, the surface can be planed level or sanded smooth and refinished.

WARPED AND DE-LAMINATED FLOORS

Some warped wood flooring is repairable and some is not. The extent of damage will depend partly on the kind of material used in the floor. Different woods react differently to dampness or flooding.

Plywood

Many homes have plywood subfloors. Plywood usually separates (de-laminates) from excessive moisture. This will make the covering material (carpet, sheet-flooring or tile) buckle. Consult a reliable contractor for this work.

If only a small section of the subfloor has separated it can be replaced with new plywood. If the entire floor has de-laminated, either remove the entire subfloor and replace it, or re-nail new plywood over the old. The subfloor must be thoroughly dry before recovering it.

Hardwood

Badly-warped hardwood floors usually can’t be repaired. If the floor is obviously beyond repair, take it up and discard it. Allow subflooring to dry for several months before installing another floor over it.

To repair slightly warped hardwood floors:

Clean and dry the floor completely before attempting any repairs. This may take weeks or even months.
If the floor is still warped in places when it is dry, remove strips adjacent to the bulges, and plane them on their edges. This will give more space for the warped boards to flatten out in time. (If boards are tongue and groove, consult a carpenter about the special techniques necessary for this work.)
You may be able to draw some buckled flooring into place by nailing the bulged spots. Some humps may be removed by planing or sanding. Heavily planed or sanded floors, though unsuitable to be used uncovered, can serve as a base for new flooring or for carpet or resilient floor covering.

Pine

Warped wide pine board flooring will often flatten out after it has thoroughly dried. Clean the floor and let dry for several months. Using the furnace as much as possible during the drying time will speed up the process. Do not try to repair the floor until it is dry. If any boards are still slightly warped when dry, use the same technique as for warped hardwood floors (see Hardwood section).

When laying a new floor or subfloor, remove baseboards and moldings. The finished floor should be the same level as the original floor, if possible. If floor level changes, doors must be refitted to the new level. Consult a carpenter before attempting this work.

REPAIRING FLOODED TILE, LINOLEUM
AND VINYL FLOOR COVERINGS

Subfloor

Water coming up from below will cause the most damage to subfloor material. If a linoleum or vinyl floor covering is not under water many days, the floor covering may partially-protect the subfloor material. Long submersion, however, will loosen adhesives and warp subflooring If a plywood or hardwood subfloor is wet, you should probably remove the linoleum or vinyl and replace the subfloor material.

Removing Loosened Floor Coverings

Some floor coverings may crack or break when you try to loosen them. Contact a reputable dealer to find out what solvent will loosen adhesives with a minimal amount of damage to linoleum or vinyl. Heating with a heat lamp or propane torch may make the covering less brittle. How easily the covering can be lifted depends on the material and adhesive. If the adhesive is waterproof, it may be difficult, if not impossible, to remove the floor covering without considerable damage.

Tiles

If the floor has not been badly soaked, you may not need to replace the subfloor. It is possible to re-cement loosened tiles of any type. Be sure the floor is thoroughly dry before trying to re-cement.

Blisters may be left in the linoleum tiles after warped wooden flooring has dried. Carefully puncture each blister with a nail. With a hand syringe, force diluted linoleum paste through the hole, and weigh the linoleum down with bricks.

Sheet Linoleum or Vinyl

Water may have seeped under a loose section of vinyl or sheet linoleum. Carefully remove the entire sheet. Allow the floor to dry thoroughly before trying to re-cement the linoleum. Thorough drying may take as long as six weeks or more. Use a new sheet of lining felt before re-cementing the floor covering.

CLEANING FLOODED FLOORS AND WOODWORK

Shovel out the worst of the mud and silt before it dries. Use a hose if necessary.
Before the house has dried out, scrub floors and woodwork with a stiff brush, plenty of water, a detergent and a disinfectant. Remove mud and silt from corners, cracks and crevices.
Water may have accumulated in partitions and exterior walls. Drain these areas by removing baseboard and drilling holes between studs a few inches above the floor. You may need to remove sections of the wallboard or plaster so that wall studding and interior can dry thoroughly — a process that may take months.
Give floors a final thorough washing with a non-sudsing cleaning product.

Removing Surface Mildew

Heat the room to a temperature of 50 to 60 degrees F to help dry mildewed wood.
Scrub mildewed floors and woodwork with a mild alkali solution such as washing soda or tri-sodium phosphate (4 to 6 tablespoons to a gallon of water), available in paint and grocery stores. Or use a cloth dipped in hot water and a small amount of kerosene, or in a mixture of borax dissolved in hot water.
Rinse with clear water.
Wipe clean floors dry with old towels.
Allow wood to dry thoroughly.
Apply a mildew-resistant paint after woodwork has thoroughly dried.
Replace badly infected wood.

Bleaching Wood Stained By Mildew

Remove paint or varnish with paint remover with room well-ventilated.
Apply a solution of 3 tablespoons oxalic acid dissolved in a pint of water to the stains. (Oxalic acid crystals can be purchased at drug stores. Oxalic acid is poisonous. Label it clearly and keep out of children’s reach.)
Rinse with clear water. Wipe dry.
Dry thoroughly before refinishing.

Refinishing

You may prefer to have floors professionally refinished. If you decide to do the work yourself:
Be sure floors and subfloors are thoroughly dry.
Sand the surface until it is clean and smooth. (Heavily-planed floors may never look good again, but they can serve as a base for carpeting, tile or sheet flooring.)
If floor is oak, apply a filler; then apply two coats of a penetrating floor seal or spar varnish. Sand between coats.
Apply varnish, following directions on can.
Treat fir flooring in the same way, but omit the filler.

DRYING WALLS

Inner Walls

Walls must dry from the inside out. The interior framing of walls should be allowed to dry thoroughly. Sometimes this process takes weeks or even months. To release water and mud from walls, remove top and bottom strips of siding on the outside of the building. Drill several holes in walls near the inside floor line.

The total drying time will depend partially on the amount of dry air that can circulate through the studding (called “chimney action”). To provide for maximum chimney action, first consider the construction of the building.

Fire Stops or Cross Bracing

These are horizontal or diagonal braces between the vertical supports or studs.

Cross bracing will prevent chimney action between the studding. However, cross bracing is not usually found in modern construction, except in two-story houses where it has been specified. To allow free air movement, remove interior or exterior wall covering wherever cross braces are located. To check for cross bracing or fire stops, extend a stiff wire into the wall cavity.

Insulation

Most types of insulation will be ruined if water-soaked. You will probably have to replace flood-soaked insulation.

Loose fill (such as vermiculite) will settle to the bottom of walls. As it dries it can be removed. If not removed, loose fill insulation will create odors and eventually cause decay of the studding.
Rock wool batting insulation will also bunch and settle. If it is absorbent it will create odors and could eventually cause studding decay.
Fiberglass batting will also bunch, but may not develop odors. Its insulating value will be greatly reduced if it is not thoroughly dry or if it settles and leaves areas at the top of walls unprotected.
Reflective surfaces (such as aluminum foil) will probably lose their reflective ability, thus decreasing their insulation effectiveness. The material itself should be undamaged.

Wall Coverings and Finishes

Plasterwill take weeks or even months to dry, but may not be ruined by water. Old plaster, however, may disintegrate after being wet for a long time.
Dry wall (plaster board) will warp and disintegrate in water. Warping above the water level can also be expected Drywall that has been submerged must be replaced.
Laminated paneling (plywood, masonite) will separate and warp above and below the water level. The extent of damage will depend on how long the paneling was submerged and how quickly moisture is removed from the studding. Slow drying decreases the possibility of delamination.

Siding

Masonry will dry slowly but will be undamaged except for possible cracking or settling. Open the inside walls to prevent mildew and decay of wooden supports.
Lapped siding (wood, asbestos, aluminum). Remove strips or sections to dry insulation and studding. The type of sheathing will determine drying rate. To prevent oxidation, make sure backing of aluminum siding is dry.

Sheathing (Material Between Studding and Finish Siding)

Wooden boards will dry slowly and some will warp. If possible, re-nail warped areas before they dry. Replace those that are too badly warped to salvage.
Sheathing board is usually absorbent and will be difficult to dry. Some will disintegrate or separate and must be replaced.
Plywood will probably separate and must be replaced. Marine plywood will not warp or separate, but is generally considered too expensive to use in residential construction unless the building is subject to frequent flooding.

CLEANING INTERIOR WALLS

If walls have been flooded, hose them down, if possible, while they are still damp to remove most of the mud and silt.
Scrub with a sponge and a warm detergent solution or a commercial cleaner. Clean a small section of the wall at a time.
To get rid of the stench that often accompanies flooding, rinse with a solution of 2 tablespoons sodium hypochlorite laundry bleach (such as Purex or Clorox) to a gallon of water. Repeat the scrubbing and rinsing several times if necessary. Household disinfectants such as Lysol can also be used. Follow directions on container.
Work from the floor to the ceiling to prevent streaking. Rinse with an old bath towel wrung out in clear water. Overlap sections.
Clean the ceiling last.
Allow walls to dry thoroughly before repainting, repairing plaster, papering or applying any wall covering. Four to six weeks should be allowed as a minimum d time Total drying time will depend on weather conditions. You may need to remove baseboards or sections of the walls to dry interior studding and insulation (see Drying Walls section).
If mildew appears on walls, scrub with a solution of trisodium phosphate, a disinfectant or a solution of 1/2 cup bleach and 1/2 cup mild detergent in a gallon of warm water.

REPAIRING EXTERIOR SIDING

Strip drywall and insulation from inside wall. Allow studs to dry thoroughly before proceeding. (Insulation can cause skin irritation. Wear protective skin covering when working with it.) Clean electrical outlets and check wiring.
Check for silt deposits in crevasses behind siding. If crevasses are filled with silt, remove siding and clean out all silt. Silt left in crevasses will trap moisture, causing mold and peeling paint.
Check for cracked or warped siding. If only a few boards are warped or cracked, replace them individually. If all siding is warped, cover entire wall with new material. You can install new siding over old, if there are no silt deposits behind old siding. This will also help improve insulation.
Cover or replace warped siding. It is easiest to cover warped horizontal beveled siding with new vertical siding, and to cover warped vertical siding with horizontal siding. Installing new siding over old will require trim work around doors and windows. Consult a carpenter for installation details. Siding is available in vinyl, aluminum and wood. Wood siding may be either natural or pre-finished. Vinyl and aluminum siding are permanently colored.

CARE OF DOORS

Take the knobs from the doors and lay the doors on a level surface with wooden strips separating them to facilitate drying and to prevent warping and twisting out of shape. Veneered doors are very likely to be ruined by submersion, but some of them may be usable if they are piled properly and dried carefully to prevent separation.

WINDOWS

Get windows open as soon as possible to speed up drying of floor and walls.

Raising wooden windows in a building that has been flooded may be difficult, since window frames and sashes will probably be water-soaked and swollen. Don’t try to pry windows open. Panes or sashes will probably break if you try to force them. Windows with metal frames should be opened. Adding wax to the tracks along which the windows move will protect them against corrosion. To open windows:

Remove side molding strips in front of inside sash. Molding strips or stops are usually nailed or screwed on, and can be easily removed.
Go outside the building and remove the sash by pushing one side gently toward the inside. Lift the sash inside.
Allow the sash to dry thoroughly before trying to fit it back into the window frame.

REPLACING BROKEN WINDOW PANES

Prepare Sash

If you need to remove the sash from the frame to make repairs, use a broad chisel or other prying tool to remove vertical strips holding sash in frame. Remove sash and place on a horizontal work surface.
If you plan to leave sash in place during repairs, chisel out old putty to free loose or broken panes. Wear gloves, and be careful to avoid being cut.
With a pair of needle-nose pliers or a screwdriver, remove glazier’s points (used in wooden sashes) or metal clips (used in metal sashes).
Scrape away putty sealing glass to groove on outside of pane.

Cut Glass

You can buy glass to fit, or cut your own from larger pieces you have available. Wear gloves and work on a solid surface covered with newspapers.

Measure glass, using a ruler or straight edge. Allow 1/16 inch space on each side.
Holding glass cutter between your first and second fingers with your thumb under the handle, make a smooth continuous stroke along the straight edge toward yourself.
To complete the break, hold small pieces firmly and bend quickly away from the cut. Tap larger pieces with cutter handle on opposite side over the scored line. For safety, wear gloves during this step.

Install Glass

Check pane size again. Make sure there is at least 1/16 inch clearance on all sides to assure a tight putty joint.
Remove panel. Apply glazing compound or putty along the groove holding the pane. (Use the kind of glazing compound recommended for your type of frame material.) Roll compound into 1/4 inch rope-like lengths. Place it in position.
Set pane in place. Press down gently on all sides of the pane to depress glazing compound into a flat film and to seal the exterior joint.
Insert glazier’s points (one centered on each end and two along each side in a wooden frame) or metal clips (in a metal frame) to secure the pane.
Apply glazing compound on interior side. First apply a generous amount of compound by drawing a loaded putty knife across the mullions (pane separators) on edges of sash at a right angle. Then draw the knife parallel to the frame to smooth the compound into a triangular bead. Size the bead so that glazing compound is not visible from the other side of the frame.
With the putty knife remove excess putty from the outside of the frame. Smooth remaining putty edge.

Clean Pane

Remove specks of glazing compound with turpentine or benzene.
Paint wooden trim when compound is dry.

CLEANING AND STERILIZING DISHES AND COOKING UTENSILS

Before using any dishes, pots, pans or cooking utensils that were in contact with flood water, wash and sterilize them.

Any piece of equipment that can be taken apart should be cleaned in pieces. Remove plastic and wooden handles from frying pans and saucepans. Clean parts separately.
Wash dishes, pots, pans and utensils in hot, sudsy water. Use a brush, if necessary, to remove dirt.
After sudsing and brushing, rinse in clear water. Place dishes in a wire basket or other container and dip them in a sanitizing solution. Use a solution recommended by local health authorities or use 1-1/2 tablespoons chlorine bleach to a gallon of water.
Air-dry dishes. Do not dry them with a dish towel. If cupboards and food preparation surfaces were in contact with flood water, clean and rinse them with a chlorine bleach solution before storing dishes and utensils.

CLEANING HOUSEHOLD METALS

Rust causes most damage to flooded household metals, especially iron. Use the following treatment to control rusting.

Iron pots, pans and utensils:

Wash with soap and water, using a stiff brush and scouring powder.
If rust remains, wipe with an oil saturated cloth or use a commercial rust remover.
Remove rust from kitchen utensils by scouring with steel wool.
Wash in hot soap suds, rinse and dry thoroughly.
Season iron pans and utensils with a generous amount of unsalted cooking oil. Heat in a 250 degree F oven for two or three hours. This will permit oil to soak into pores of metal. During the heating process apply more oil as needed. When seasoning is completed wipe off the excess oil.

Hardware

Coat iron hardware with petrolatum or machine oil to prevent further rusting.
Use stove polish on stove or similar ironwork.

Locks and Hinges

Locks and hinges, especially those made of iron, should be taken apart, wiped with kerosene and oiled. Follow the same procedure as for iron hardware.

If it isn’t possible to remove locks or hinges, squirt a little machine oil into the bolt opening or keyhole. Work the knobs to distribute the oil. This will help prevent rusting of the springs and metal casing. (Do not use too much oil as it may drip on the woodwork, making painting difficult.)

Stainless Steel, Nickel-Copper Alloy, Nickel or Chrome-Plated Metals

Wash thoroughly and polish with a fine-powdered cleanser.
If furniture plating or hardware is broken so that base metal is exposed and rusted, wipe with kerosene and then wash and dry the surface. Wax to prevent further rusting.

Aluminum Pans and Utensils

Wash thoroughly with hot sudsy water. Scour any unpolished surfaces, such as the insides of pans, with steel wool pads with soap. Rub in one direction only.
Polish plated aluminum surfaces with a fine cleansing powder or silver polish. Do not scour.
Sterilize in a chlorine solution.
To remove dark stains from aluminum pans caused by alkaline foods, fill pan with water. Add 1 Tablespoon vinegar or 2 teaspoons cream of tartar for each quart of water. Boil for 10 to 15 minutes, scour with steel wool pad with soap, rinse and dry.

Copper and Brass

Polish with a special polish or rub with cloth saturated with vinegar or with a piece of salted lemon.
Always wash copper thoroughly with soap suds after using acids or commercial polishes or they will retarnish rapidly.
Wash lacquered ornamental copper in warm sudsy water. Rinse with warm water and wipe dry. Do not polish. Do not soak.

Pewter

Wash thoroughly with hot sudsy water, rinse and dry. Use a soft toothbrush to get into crevices.
Rub on silver polish (paste or liquid, not the dip type) with a soft cloth. Use a soft toothbrush to get into crevices.
Rinse in hot soap suds and dry.
Check for small holes, cracked joints and dents. If the pewter needs mending and is a prized piece, let a professional fix it.
Small holes can be mended by cleaning the metal inside the pewter object with steel wool, then fill with pewter epoxy mender. Follow instructions on the label carefully.
Felt or other protection materials that have separated from household decorative accessories such as bookends, ashtrays and candle holders should be replaced. Felt or protective materials can be purchased in fabric stores, cut to match those damaged and glued in place with rubber cement.

SALVAGING CLOTHING

Hard water may be contaminated with sewage waste so it is important that flood-soiled clothing be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected in order to kill harmful bacteria. Prompt attention may save much of your clothing that has been damaged by flood waters. If possible, do not permit the flood water and mud to dry in shoes or garments.

WASHABLE GARMENTS

Check your care label to make sure garments are washable.
If labeled hand washable only, then hand wash — do not put into the washing machine.
If garment is dry, brush off loose dirt.
Rinse in clean, cool water to remove mud and flood water. This will take several rinsings — until rinse water is clear.
Work a heavy duty detergent (liquid) or paste of granule detergent into all stained areas. Let stand 15 to 30 minutes.
Follow care labels and wash in hottest water safe for garment with detergent.
Sanitize using a disinfectant. Always test on an inconspicuous seam to be sure it does not harm the garment, such as a color change. Add to washing machine before adding clothing.
Liquid chlorine bleach (Clorox, Purex) if safe for garment. Do not use on washable wools and silks. Follow directions for use carefully.
Pine oil (Pine-O-Pine, Fyne Pine) is safe for most washable garments. Do not use on washable wools and silks since the odor will remain.
Phenolic (Pine-Sol, Al-Pine) is safe for most washable garments. Do not use on washable wools and silks since the odor will remain.
Hang garments to dry.

DRY-CLEANABLE CLOTHING

Take to the drycleaner as soon as possible. Be sure to shake and brush well to remove as much dirt as possible. Give the drycleaner as much information as possible about:

What caused the damage.
The fiber content of fabric, if known, dye.

WHEN DRY-CLEANING IS NOT AVAILABLE

Garments Still Damp With Muddy Water

Rinse in cold water to remove water-soluble, clay-type soil. Rinse garment as quickly as possible to avoid bleeding of dyes and to keep shrinkage to a minimum.
Gently squeeze out excess water and shake out wrinkles. Rolling in dry towels will help remove excess water.
Place garment on hanger and dry in cool air or smooth it out on flat surface to dry.

Garments That Are Only Partly Wet

Try to rinse out the wet portion without dipping the entire garment in cold water. If this cannot be done without leaving a strong stain line, it is better to dip the entire garment.
Shake out wrinkles and dry in cool air.

Dry Garments With Soil in Them

The soil may be difficult to remove. Shake well to remove as much soil as possible before sending to the dry cleaner.

Wet Garments, But Not Soiled

Dry in cool air to prevent mildew and transfer of dye.

LEATHER AND SUEDE GARMENTS AND ACCESSORIES

Leather and suede garments, shoes, belts and handbags should be allowed to dry away from direct heat then:

Brush off as much mud as possible.
Use mild soap suds and cool water to remove remaining dirt.
Rinse with clean water and wipe gently with clean cloth until all dirt is removed. Do Not get the leather or suede too wet while cleaning.
Stuff shoes, handbags, and sleeves with paper to maintain their shape.
Dry away from sun and heat.
Clean with saddle soap.
Use an oil for leather or suede to soften and prevent stiffening.
NOTE: This oil may darken the leather, so check before using
Use a suede brush to restore its original appearance. Be sure to brush in only one direction.

CLEANING HOUSEHOLD LINENS
AND FURNISHINGS

Mattresses

Due to the complex construction of modern mattresses, renovation is usually not possible. It is best to buy a good used mattress or a new mattress.

If a mattress must be used temporarily, scrape off surface dirt and wash with a bleach solution (3/4 cup of bleach to 1 gallon of water) to clean and disinfect the mattress. Use gloves when washing the fabric and then expose the mattress to the sun. Turn occasionally to dry. Household fans may also speed up the drying process. Cover mattress with plastic or a rubber sheet before using it.

Feather Pillows

Washing feathers and ticking together. If ticking is in good condition, wash feathers and ticking together.

Brush off surface dirt.
To circulate water through pillows, open a few inches of the seam to opposite corners of the pillow, turn edges, sew loosely with strong thread or fasten with safety pins.
Wash in machine or by hand in warm (not hot) suds 15 to 20 minutes. Use a disinfectant in the wash cycle. If using an automatic washer, do not wash more than two pillows at a time.
Rinse at least three times in clear, warm water.
Spin off water or gently squeeze out as much wear as possible. Do not put pillows through wringer.
Dry in an automatic dryer at moderate heat setting or dry in a warm room with a fan or across two or three clotheslines. Put several bath towels or a clean tennis shoe in dryer with pillows to speed up drying and to keep the pillows “moving.” Allow at least two hours. Shake up feathers occasionally to hasten drying.

Washing feathers and ticking separately

If ticking is not in good condition or if pillow is badly soiled, wash feathers and ticking separately.

Find a muslin bag or large pillow case which is two or three times larger than the ticking.
Open one edge of ticking.
Sew open edges of the ticking and the bag together.
Shake the feathers from ticking to muslin bag.
Close seam of bag.
Wash bag of feathers in lukewarm, sudsy water and disinfectant.
Repeat if necessary.
Rinse in lukewarm water, changing water several times.
Squeeze out as much water as possible by hand. Do not use a wringer. LI>To air-dry, hang on line by two corners. Change position end to end and shake feathers occasionally to speed up drying.
Wash the ticking. With a sponge, apply a starch solution to the inside of the ticking or use a spray starch.
Transfer clean feathers to the clean, sanitized starched ticking, using the same methods as for emptying.
Close seam of ticking.

It is very important to completely dry the feathers to reduce potential odors. If pillows have been badly soiled, it may not be possible to remove all objectionable odors.

Polyester Fiberfill Pillows

Brush off surface dirt.
Wash by hand or in a washing machine in warm water and low-sudsing detergent. Add a disinfectant to the wash water. Flush water through pillow by compressing it. (Twisting and wringing will tear filling.) Change water and repeat if necessary.
Rinse three times in clear, warm water.
Spin off water in automatic machine. Tumble dry in dryer at moderate setting with several bath towels or press out as much as possible by hand and hang on line outdoors to dry.

Foam Rubber or Urethane Pillows

Remove cover. Brush off surface dirt.
Follow manufacturer’s directions if they are available. Otherwise, soak in cool water; then wash in warm, suds by hand. Use a bathtub or large sink. Then wash by pushing down on pillow, releasing, and pushing down again. Rinse the same way in lukewarm water.
Gently squeeze or spin out excess water. Blot with towels.
Dry away from heat or sunlight. Do not dry in dryer unless on an “air only” setting. Pillows may dry very slowly in the air. If the pillows are old they may crumble.

Blankets, Quilts and Comforters

Wash only one blanket, quilt or comforter at a time.

Shake and brush to remove surface dirt. Follow manufacturer’s laundering directions if available. Otherwise, proceed as follows.
Soak at least 15 minutes in lukewarm water, turn two or three times during soak period. Several soak periods may he beneficial depending on the amount of soil lodged in fibers. Change water for each soak period.
Wash using a mild detergent, disinfectant and lukewarm water. Immerse blanket and work suds in gently, using as little agitation as possible.
Rinse in several changes of lukewarm water. Soak each time for five minutes turning once or twice by hand. Extract as much water as possible.
Hang blanket over two lines to dry so it forms an “M” shape or dry it in preheated dryer with several large, dry bath towels. Remove blanket from dryer while still damp and hang over two lines to finish drying. Gently stretch blanket into shape.
Brush blanket on both sides to raise nap. Steam press binding, using synthetic setting on iron. Wash lightweight quilts following directions for wool blankets. Dry outdoors in sunlight, if possible, to remove unpleasant odors.

You may need to take thick comforters apart and wash cover and filling separately.

Washable Woolen Bedding

Shake and brush well to remove loose dirt. Wash in lukewarm (barely warm) water with mild soap or detergent. Use a disinfectant.

Dry in warm place or in direct sunlight.

Electric Blankets

Follow manufacturer’s directions, if available. Most manufacturers recommend electric blankets be washed, not dry cleaned. Cover plug with heavy cloth and follow instructions above. Avoid bending wiring. Do not put electric blankets through a wringer or dry in a dryer, unless manufacturer recommends. To dry, squeeze down blanket lengthwise and hang over two lines.

Sheets, Towels, Linens

Brush off as much loose dirt as possible.
Rinse mud-stained fabrics in cold water to take out particles of soil lodged in fibers.
Wash in warm suds and disinfectant several times, if necessary. To avoid setting stains do not use hot water. Rinse well.
If stains remain after several washings, try bleaching white cottons and linens. Do not over bleach. Sun drying will aid bleaching. Bleaches may be used on some colored fabrics; follow directions on bleach package.

CLEANING FLOOD-SOILED RUGS AND CARPETS

It is likely that rugs and carpets will have to be cleaned by a professional rug cleaner. However, you can try the following cleaning methods.

Dry

Dry rugs and carpets as soon as possible to prevent mildew. Mildew is a spreading gray-white mold that stains and rots fabrics.

Pull up water logged rugs immediately to prevent further damage to the floor. If possible dry small rugs outdoors in sunlight. Dry blankets or towels can be used to blot up excess moisture. Lay towels on the wet floor and walk on them to absorb moisture.

To get air and heat to carpets, open windows if weather permits or use household electric fans or electric lights suspended on coat hanger “nests.” Do not try to vacuum, sweep or shampoo carpets until they are thoroughly dry.

Sweep or Vacuum

After carpet is dry, thoroughly vacuum or sweep to get rid of dirt and debris. Move vacuum cleaner slowly to pick up more dirt. Clean off as much crusted dirt and sediment as possible before shampooing.

Shampoo

Note: Some rugs may shrink when shampooed.

Use a commercial rug shampoo which may be applied to the carpet with an electrical rug shampooer, a manual applicator, a sponge mop or a hand brush.
An electrical shampooer agitates the carpet fibers and works the shampoo into the pile, removing soil. It should not be used on shag carpeting because the long pile can become tangled in the brushes.
After cleaning each section of the carpet, brush the wet pile in one direction with the applicator.
When the foam has dried thoroughly, vacuum the carpet to remove dry shampoo and loose dirt.
If carpet must be disinfected, dip sponge in a weak chlorine solution (1/4 teaspoon Clorox or other chlorine bleach to 1 cup water). Wring out sponge and wipe carpet in sections. Use as little water as possible on the sponge, since water will weaken carpet backing.
Caution: Bleach may discolor carpet. Test bleach mixture in an out-of-the way place before applying.
Rinse several times with clear water, wringing most of the water from the sponge each time. Change the rinse water as it becomes dirty.
Blot up remaining moisture with bath towels or other soft absorbent material.

Dry

After shampooing, dry rugs or carpets quickly.

Hang rugs on line if possible, or lay them out flat in a warm, dry place. An electric fan will speed up drying. Carpets and rugs should be thoroughly dried.

Even though the surface seems dry, any moisture remaining at the base of the fiber tufts will cause mildew or rot. If you must walk on the carpet before it is dry, put down brown paper. Vacuum again when dry, and brush the nap in one direction.

SALVAGING HOUSEHOLD FURNITURE

Before starting to salvage damaged furniture, decide which pieces are worth restoring. Such decisions should be based on:

Extent of damage
Cost of the article
Sentimental value
Cost of restoration

Consider each piece individually.

Antiques may be worth the time, effort and expense of restoration. Unless damage is severe, you can probably clean, reglue and refinish antiques at home. Extensive repair or re-veneering work should be done at a reliable furniture repair shop.

Solid wood furniture can usually be restored, unless damage is severe. You will probably need to clean, dry and reglue the piece. Slightly warped boards may be removed and straightened.

Wood veneered furniture is available in many qualities. Extensive damage may be costly to repair. If veneer is loose in just a few places, you may be able to repair it.

Upholstered furniture may be salvageable, depending on its general condition. Flooded pieces will need to be cleaned and dried, and mildew should be removed. If damage is extensive, you may have to replace padding and upholstery. Since this is an expensive process, it might be wiser to apply the money toward a new piece of furniture. You will not need to repair all pieces immediately. Any furniture worthy of repair should be completely cleaned, dried and stored in a dry, well-ventilated place until you have time to repair it.

SALVAGING UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE

Upholstered furniture that has been submerged in flood water may be impossible to salvage if it has been badly soaked. If the piece seems worth the effort, however, you will need to clean and oil the springs, replace stuffing and clean the frame.

Stuffing and Covering

Remove furniture coverings using a ripping tool, hammer or tack puller, screwdriver or chisel.
Remove all tacks from the frame.
Wash coverings. 4
Throw away all cotton stuffing. You can dry, fumigate, and sometimes reuse padding made of materials other than cotton.

Springs and Frame

Wipe off springs and frame. Dry all metal parts and paint them with rust-inhibiting paint. Oil springs.
Store wood furniture where it will dry out slowly.

Mildew

Mildew may have developed on damp or wet furniture. Mildew is a gray-white mold that leaves stains and rots fabric unless it is removed promptly. To remove mildew or mildew spots:

Brush with a broom to remove loose mold from outer covering. Do this outdoors if possible, so you don’t scatter mildew spots (which can start new growth) in the house.
Vacuum the surface to draw out mold. Dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag outside to avoid scattering mold spores in the house.
If mildew remains and fabric is washable, sponge lightly with thick soap or detergent suds. Wipe with a clean, damp cloth. Get as little water on the fabric as possible, so the padding doesn’t get wet.
If mold remains, wipe the furniture with a damp cloth dipped in dilute alcohol (1 cup denatured alcohol to 1 cup water) or a chlorine bleach solution (1/4 teaspoon bleach to a cup of water). Test in an area that is “hidden.”
Dry the article thoroughly.
Use a low-pressure spray containing a fungicide to get rid of musty odors and remaining mildew. Moisten all surfaces thoroughly. Re-spray frequently if mildew is a continuing problem. Spraying rooms with an aerosol material will not eliminate mildew problems.
If molds have grown into inner part, send furniture to a dry cleaning or storage company for thorough drying and fumigation. Fumigation will kill molds present at the time, but will not protect against future attacks.

SALVAGING FLOODED WOODEN FURNITURE

Wooden furniture damaged by floods can best be salvaged through slow drying and proper repair.

Submerged Furniture

Take furniture outdoors and remove as many drawers, slides and removable parts as possible. Drawers and doors will probably be stuck tight. Do not try to force them out from the front. After allowing to dry for a brief period, use a screwdriver or chisel to remove the back and push out the drawer fro m behind.
After you have removed movable parts, clean off mud and dirt, using a hose if necessary.
Take all furniture indoors and store it where it will dry slowly. Furniture left in the sunlight to dry will warp and twist out of shape.
When furniture is dry, reglue it if necessary. You will need woodworking tools and clamps to reglue some pieces. Before you start, decide whether you have the time, equipment and ability to do the work. Consult an experienced cabinetmaker if necessary. To reglue loose joints, thoroughly clean joints of old glue so the area will be as clean and free of glue as possible. Use a white all-purpose glue, following directions on container. Hold parts together with rope tourniquets or suitable clamps. To prevent damage from ropes or clamps, pad contact areas with cloth protection.

Damp Furniture – Removing White Spots

Furniture that has been submerged in flood waters will frequently exhibit mildew or mold which can be removed with warm soapy (mild detergent) water and a soft cloth. White spots or a cloudy film may develop on damp furniture that has not been submerged. To remove white spots:

If the entire surface is affected, rub with a damp cloth dipped in turpentine or in a solution of 1/2 cup household ammonia and 1/2 cup water. Wipe dry at once and polish with wax or furniture polish.
If color is not restored, dip 000 steel wool in oil (boiled linseed, olive, mineral or lemon). Rub lightly with the wood grain. Wipe with a soft cloth and re-wax.
For deep spots use a drop or two of ammonia on a damp cloth. Rub at once with a dry cloth. Polish. Rubbing cigarette ashes, powdered pumice, or a piece of walnut into spots may help remove them.
If spots remain after all efforts to remove them, the piece should be stripped of the old finish and refinished.

Veneered Furniture

Thoroughly dry furniture. If veneer is loose in just a few places, carefully scrape glue under loose areas.

Press veneer back in place. Place wax paper over affected area and heat w ith warm iron, remove iron and place weights on the area.
If veneering doesn?t stay in place or is bubbled, carefully slit the loose veneer with a razor blade, apply a good quality glue. Weights are applied after covering glued spots with wax paper to prevent excess glue (which may spurt out when pressure is applied) from gluing the weights to the furniture.

Repairing badly damaged veneered furniture requires special skill and tools. Unless you are an experienced woodworker, don?t attempt the job yourself. Take the furniture to a cabinetmaker or have your dealer return it to the factory for repair.

If insurance allows part value on flood-damaged furniture, it may be financially worthwhile to apply the money to new articles, rather than pay for extensive repairs.

STRAIGHTENING WARPED FURNITURE BOARDS

Slightly warped furniture boards, as in table or dresser tops, usually can be straightened if they are made of solid wood. However, do not attempt to straighten severely warped parts, veneered parts (veneer usually separates) or parts with an elaborate grain, such as curly maple. If such pieces are worth salvage expense, send them to a reliable furniture repair shop Get a cost estimate before leaving the piece for repair.

To straighten slightly warped boards:

Remove the warped board from the furniture.
Strip the board of its old finish. A clean board will straighten better than a finished board. You may have to strip the entire piece of furniture to attain an even finish when the board is straightened, refinished and replaced.
The principle of warp removal is to add moisture to the dry side (concave) and remove it from the wet side (convex). You can do this by:
- Placing the board with the wet side (convex) down on a radiator or heat vent in the winter.
- Placing the wet side (concave) up in the direct rays of the sun. With either method keep the concave side moist with damp cloths and place bricks or other weights on top of the board and leave it for several days or until board is straight.
Clamp board in a flat position when it has straightened. Place clamps no more than 12 inches apart. Use small pieces of wood or pads between board and clamps to protect the board. Loosen clamps and move them slightly once or twice a day to prevent splitting. You may place several boards in the same clamps. Insert small wooden blocks between boards for air space.
Stand on end and leave in the clamped position until thoroughly dry. This will take from several days to several weeks.
Paint or refinish as desired. Apply the finish to both underside and top of board. This will keep the board from absorbing moisture and from eventually re-warping.

DRYING BOOKS AND FAMILY PAPERS

Dry books and papers slowly:

If books and papers are damp, sprinkle cornstarch or talcum powder between pages to absorb moisture. Leave powder on for several hours and then brush off.
Books that have sustained water damage should be placed on end with pages separated.
When pages are partially dry, pile and press books to keep pages from crumpling.
Alternate drying and pressing until books are thoroughly dry. This helps prevent mildew. Use a fan to hasten drying.
When books are nearly dry, apply low heat with an electric iron. Separate the pages to prevent musty odors. This is a tedious process which you may want to use only with valuable books.
Some chemicals such as parachlorobenzene may help stop mold growth. Books can be placed in closed containers with moth crystals to help stop mold growth. Contact your County Extension Office for recommendations.
When books are thoroughly dry, close them and use C-clamps to help retain their shape.
Books and papers may be frozen until you have time to work with them. Freezing is very effective in controlling mold growth.
Even if books and papers appear to have dried successfully, they may disintegrate because of materials in the flood water. As a precautionary measure, photocopy important documents or papers.
An excellent source of information is the publication, “Procedures for Salvage of Water- Damaged Library Materials” by the Library of Congress available at your local library.

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